Tag: chemicals

RUST PROTECTION

rustybug Leave a comment

Picked up some additional rust-protection from PM Industries, the guys who make Master Series coatings. I had already bought some MasterCoat Silver rust sealer/primer, but it’s silver, and I want the chassis to be painted black. So I ordered some of their MasterSeries AG111 (aka, TractorKote). They have a MasterCoat Black, but I believe it’s not UV-stable. The AG111 is. It’s a two-part moisture-cured urethane and I think it will be all the protection I need when painted over the MasterCoat Silver.

MasterSeries AG111 2-part urethane, and thinner

 

This can be sprayed, or brushed with good results. I’m not ready to hook up the paint spray guns yet, so brushing it will be.

REPAIRS – Paint Removal Tests

russell Leave a comment

The roof of Beavis has some deep scratches and surface rust caused by (I think) running the car through the woods under some tree branches. The paint needs to be removed, and I have a couple of methods to test:

1.) Chemical paint stripper, and some elbow grease with a metal scraper.
2.) A ‘flap’ disc attached to an angle grinder
3.) A coating removal disc like the ones from 3M
4.) Palm sander with coarse sand paper

The chemical paint stripper works reasonably well, but there’s a lot of manual work with the scraper, and it’s not a pleasant chemical. The flap disc removes the paint and primer very well, but also scuffs up the metal a bit much and leaves lots of scratches in the surface.

Get the Lead Out

russell Leave a comment

Received an auto body solder kit today that I purchased off of eBay. It was $89.99 plus shipping. The item is the Eastwood Body Solder Leading Kit Basic with DVD.

I thought this would be a better product than the usual plastic body filler (like the Bondo brand). I’ve read that the plastic fillers are moisture magnets. Plus, I think that sticking some more metal on the car has to be a stronger repair than plastic.

Kit includes two paddles for spreading the lead, a body file and file handle, 1 lb. of tinning butter, 1 lb. tin of tallow (to keep the wood paddles from igniting, I guess), five acid brushes to spread the butter, eight sticks of lead (30/70 solder, actually), and an instructional DVD. Of course, you also need some kind of torch (think I will get an inexpensive propane torch.)