Monthly Archives: August 2010

Get the Lead Out

Received an auto body solder kit today that I purchased off of eBay. It was $89.99 plus shipping. The item is the Eastwood Body Solder Leading Kit Basic with DVD.

I thought this would be a better product than the usual plastic body filler (like the Bondo brand). I’ve read that the plastic fillers are moisture magnets. Plus, I think that sticking some more metal on the car has to be a stronger repair than plastic.

Kit includes two paddles for spreading the lead, a body file and file handle, 1 lb. of tinning butter, 1 lb. tin of tallow (to keep the wood paddles from igniting, I guess), five acid brushes to spread the butter, eight sticks of lead (30/70 solder, actually), and an instructional DVD. Of course, you also need some kind of torch (think I will get an inexpensive propane torch.)


Posted by on August 26, 2010 in Tools

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Removal of antenna, windshield wiper motor, and electronics. Found a huge bug nest wrapped around the windshield wiper switch.


Posted by on August 15, 2010 in Disassembly

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DISASSEMBLY – Part 8 – Front Windshield

Removed the windshield tonight. The seal rubber was cracked and dry-rotted in some places, but tough and flexible in others. First, I removed the chrome trim pieces, then I cut out the window seal in pieces until I could pull most of it away. Part of the windshield itself is broken, and was stuck together with glue or silicone. The glass also did not look like it was a uniform shape. the edge wavers around the perimeter, as though it was hand-cut. Some of the glass came apart as I was removing it; I can’t imagine this providing any sort of protection in a wreck. I had been looking for an original windshield from the early sixties, but now I beginning to think the safe, best thing to do will be to get a good piece of tempered or layered glass that won’t shatter with impact. It’s probably cheaper in the short-run, and safer in the long-run.

Underneath the windshield, I had been expecting some serious rust-damage and that’s exactly what I found. After looking it over, I think I will be able to repair it. There’s fairly-decent access from the top (obviously) and the bottom (through the hood.) I intend to weld-in some patch sections, then use some lead (lead-free) body solder to smooth it over. The worst section is where the window rim has been rusted away. Not sure how to build it back without putting in a section from a donor car, and that may be difficult to line up and size correctly. That will be challenging, I think.


Posted by on August 12, 2010 in Disassembly

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Removal of some small items. Photos to follow.


Posted by on August 11, 2010 in Disassembly

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Started removing the window glass today, beginning with the rear window, and then the side windows. The rubber molding was dry-rotted so it was fairly easy break apart with fingers and careful use of a screwdriver. The glass came out easily; I’m surprised at how thin it is, it seems like my 1970 Beetle rear window was much thicker.
The rear windows and side windows are all marked as made by Sekurit. Don’t know if there’s a way to tell if it’s original glass or not. I’ve been looking for an original front windshield since mine is badly-cracked, but after reading several posts on about original glass being fragile, I think I need to research it a little more and make sure I choose the safer windshield (if not the rest of the windows glass). Laminated vs. tempered vs. original vs. new.
Once I removed the side windows and rear window, I was glad to see that the rust spots around the windows rims were not bad, or at least they weren’t as bad as I thought they would be. I was afraid I would be welding-in patches or lead-soldering some sections. The windshield damage remains to be seen.

In addition to removing some glass, I also began treating some rusty fasteners with Kroil penetrant to aid in their removal later.

Total time: approximately 40 minutes. Photos follow.


Posted by on August 10, 2010 in Disassembly

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